On the Way to Yoga District

NewIndPress.com
August 8, 2008
by Malvika Tegta

Fiery red gulmohars, against the grey overhung monsoon clouds, line the gently sloping crisscrossed asphalt of Gokulam. This plexus of mains and crosses, weaves into it the tin chai stand, a ramshackled mom ‘n’ pop store, an improvised coconut water shed and old red floored homes with the same indifference as a Nilgiri’s supermarket, family-run cafes and posh dulpex apartments that have sprung up in recent years.

One of these lanes in this upmarket ‘Yoga district’ leads you to Bharath Shetty’s Yoga India, a small Hatha yoga studio. A room in styled in Madhubani pop art, or Ganeshas in psychedelic shades, caters to mostly western Yoga enthusiasts and Bharath’s is only one of the 60 odd yoga centres that have come up in Mysore. Continue reading this article…

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Chamundi Hill

On the outskirts of Mysore city is Chamundi Hill. You can get there by auto-rickshaw or city bus 201. Entrance is free, but be prepared for all the vendors anxious to sell you postcards and trinkets.

You can either ride most of the way or take the 1,000 steps to the top. Along the climb, there are vantage points to park and take in the view of Mysore City. Halfway up is a 5-meter high granite statue of Nandi, Shiva’s mount. At the apex is the beautiful Gopuram of Chamundi Temple. Also, nearby are the temple of Mahabaleswara and a statue of Mahishasura, the demon slaughtered by goddess Chamundi, a form of Kali.

Government Silk Factory

Telephone: 821-248-1803
The famous Mysore silk is woven here. You can tour the factory and then visit the showroom and purchase silk at factory prices. However, you must get permission in advance in order to visit.

Government Sandalwood Oil Factory

Telephone: 821-248-3651
As with the silk factory, you must get permission in advance to visit the factory where aromatic sandalwood oil is produced.

Jaganmohan Palace Art Gallery

Telephone: 821-242-3693
Built in the mid 1800s, this auditorium and pavilion have since been converted into an art gallery. Paintings of the royal family show their genealogy. Also on display is some of the personal property of the maharajas such as furniture, glass, chinaware, sculpture and musical instruments.

Lalitha Mahal Palace

Telephone: 821-247-4266
Telephone: 821-247-4268
Near the base of Chamundi Hill, is the Lalitha Mahal Palace, which was originally built for guests of the royal family. It now serves as one of the most luxurious hotels in Mysore.  Occasionally, you will find yoga students visiting the pool here for the day. It is quieter than the Southern Star pool and much less of a scene, but a bit of a drive to get to.

Mysore Palace

Telephone: 821-243-4425
After the old palace was partially destroyed by fire in 1897, the new Mysore Palace was built of granite on the old foundation. The palace has a gilded dome tower and is surrounded by a large courtyard. The architecture inside the palace is amazing! Stained glass, intricately decorated domes, murals, beautiful doors, carved figures and friezes are only of few of the captivating details. One of the most prized possessions of the palace is the royal throne made of figwood, ivory, gold & silver that is only displayed during the Dasara celebration.

Every Sunday night between 7 – 8 pm and during the 10-day Dasara festival in October, Mysore Palace is lit up with thousands of white lights, almost reminiscent of a Disney attraction. People gather on the lawn on Sunday evenings to watch dance or musical events that take place at this time.  The inside of the palace is open for public viewing from 10 am – 5:30 pm for a small entrance fee. Cameras and shoes are not allowed inside.

Mysore Zoo

Telephone: 821-244-0752
Just like any zoo, it’s sad yet intriguing at the same time. The zoo was started in the late 1800s and has grown into 91 acres. The tigers are quite impressive. They are huge and with a roar that will forever be imprinted in your memory. It’s open 8:30 – 5:30 pm except Tuesdays.

Rail Museum

Telephone: 821-242-8750
Established in the 1970s, the Rail Museum is a collection of royal family coaches, engines, railway signals and railway memorabilia. The museum is open 9 am – 6 pm every day except Tuesdays.

St. Philomena’s Church

Telephone: 821-256-3148
St. Philomena’s Church is one if the largest churches in India. Built in the Gothic style with beautiful stained glass windows, the church is open from 5 am – 6 pm. On the outside of the church is the entrance to an underground  chamber worth exploring.

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Local Mysore Bus

Buses run frequently and are often crowded but very cheap at Rs. 2 – 4 so it’s best to carry coins. Once you board the bus, an attendant comes around to collect fares. For information on bus schedules and fares, you can contact the Mysore Main Bus Stand at 821-252-0853 or the City Bus Stand at 821-242-5819.

Rickshaws

An auto rickshaw is a 3-wheeled motorized “taxi.”  Getting a rickshaw in Mysore is rarely a problem except early in the morning or late at night. Ask to make sure that the meter is working first. If the meter is not working, agree on a price beforehand or get another rickshaw. Most one-way rickshaw rides within Mysore will cost approximately Rs. 10 – 40. After 10 pm, the drivers typically charge 50% over the meter and after midnight double the meter, but this can often be negotiated. If you ask a rickshaw to wait for your return, the driver will most likely expect to be compensated for his time.

There aren’t many street signs in Mysore and some streets can go by a few names. So don’t be surprised when your driver tells you he knows where you want to go, but then pulls over three times to ask for directions. Rickshaw drivers are also notorious for not having change; so make sure to travel with small bills or coins.

A good, reliable rickshaw driver is Krishna in Gokulam. He is available 24 hours a day and provides rickshaw transportation, sightseeing services and airport pick-up or drop-off.

Bike and Moped Rental

If you can manage the traffic in Mysore, you can drive anywhere! Driving here entails dodging cows, maneuvering through clouds of exhaust, driving on the left-hand side of the road, avoiding potholes, crawling over speed bumps, using hand signals and honking your horn frequently and often unnecessarily. An international driving permit is a legal requirement for mopeds and scooters and can result in a fine if you fail to present one. You can rent a bike for approximately Rs. 15 per day or a moped/scooter for around Rs. 1,500 per month. The facilitators listed in the “Services” chapter can help you rent a bike or moped.

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The nearest airport to Mysore is Bangalore International Airport about 140 kilometers in Bangalore, the capital of the Indian state of Karnataka and the third most populated city. Several airlines now service Bangalore either by direct or connecting flight.

Domestic

Indian Airlines
Cauvery Bhawan, Kempe Gowda Road,
Bangalore-560009.
Phone:+91-80-141, 224 6793
Airport Phone: +91-80-522 5973,522 2533.

Jet Airways
1/4, Unity Bldg, JC Rd, Block M
Bangalore – 560002.
Phone : +91-80-2291613.
Airport Phone: +91-80-5220671.

Sahara India Airline
Church Street, Bangalore – 560001.
Phone: +91-80-558 4147.
Airport Phone: +91-80-522 1287.

International

Air India
Unity Building, J.C Road, Bangalore – 560002.
Phone: +91-80-227 7752

Air Lanka
G5, Imperial Court, Cunningham Road,
Bangalore – 560002.
Phone: +91-80-226 7613.

British Airways
St.Marks Road Bangalore – 560001.
Phone: +91-80-227 1205.

Bulgarian Airways
Cunningham Road, Bangalore – 560002.
Phone: +91-80-226 2814.

Cathay Pacific
The Taj West End, Race Course Road,
Bangalore – 560001.
Phone: +91-80-220 2713.

Ethopian Airlines
Cunningham Road, Bangalore 560002.
Phone: +91-80-226 2814.

Japan Airlines
Devatha Plaza, Residency Road,
Bangalore – 560025.
Phone: +91-80-227 8757.

KLM Airlines
The Taj West End, Race Course Road,
Bangalore – 560001.
Phone: +91-80-225 9281.

Kuwait Airways
Sunrise Chambers, Ulsoor Road,
Bangalore – 560042.
Phone:+91-80-558 9841.

Lufthansa
Dickenson Road, Bangalore – 560042.
Phone: +91-80-558 7545.

Malaysian Airlines
Richmond Circle, Bangalore – 560025.
Phone: +91-80-207 5011.

Pakistan International Airlines
Brigade Road, Bangalore – 560001.
Phone: +91-80-558 3074

Quantas
West Minister, Cunningham Road,
Bangalore – 560052.
Phone: +91-80-226 4719.

Singapore Airlines
Richmond Road, Bangalore – 560025.
Phone: +91-80-286 7868.

Swiss Air
Richmond Road, Bangalore – 560025.
Phone: +91-80-221 1983.

Thai Airways
Richmond Road, Bangalore – 560025.
Phone: +91-80-221 9810.

Orbitz has a search engine that provides price comparisons regarding flights, but you can usually find better rates elsewhere. It’s a good Web site to start searching and then shop around from there. Besides the airline Web sites, there are many consolidators that can often provide cheaper rates. Make My Trip and Air Gorilla offer decent rates, to name a couple. From the continental US, expect to pay approximately US $1,200 – $1,800 for a restricted round-trip economy class ticket.

Bangalore Taxi

Probably the easiest way to go door-to-door from Bangalore to Mysore is to hire a taxicab. This way you don’t have to deal with getting to or from the train or bus station. You can pre-arrange a car by contacting one of the facilitators below or a travel agency. The ride is approximately four hours long due to the poor road conditions rather than the actual distance. If you are landing in Bangalore in the late night/early morning, the traffic won’t be as bad as in the daytime. The taxis are big white cars called Ambassador and the fare will cost you about Rs. 2,000 (approximately US $50) one way plus another Rs. 200 for an air-conditioned vehicle. If this is your first experience driving in India, be prepared for lots of horn honking, lane changing and head-on games of chicken.

Facilitators:
Shiva: 9844226082
Murthy: 9880265622 or tskittymurthy@yahoo.co.in
Ganesh: 08214288120 ganeshmysore@gmail.com

Bangalore Bus

Buses from Bangalore to Mysore depart often from the central bus station. You will need to get a rickshaw to take you there from the airport. Visit India Interstate Transit for fares and bus schedules from Bangalore to Mysore. The cheapest fare starts at Rs. 70.

Train

There are express and regular trains to Mysore from Bangalore. For the “Shatabdi Express” you will need to make reservations. You can check the train schedule at Indian Railways for up-to-date information. The Mysore Railway Station can be reached by telephone at 821-252-1751.

See Ashtanga City – The Westerner’s Guide to Mysore for sample train and bus schedules.

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The tropical city of Mysore can range in temperature from 60º F (15 C) in the winter months up to above 90º F (35 C) during the peak of summer. The winter months of November through January are pleasantly cool, and only a sweater or light jacket is needed in the early morning or late evening chill. February through May is considered the summer season when temperatures can climb well above 90º F. Monsoon season is June to August which can mean getting pelted by huge raindrops that seemingly come out of nowhere or showered with a light sprinkle of rain. Mornings can be cool followed by humid afternoons, and navigating muddy roads can get quite messy during monsoon season.

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Measurements and Time

India uses the metric system where distance is measured in meters, liquids are measured in liters and solids are weighed in kilograms. 220 volts/50 hertz is the electrical frequency, and power outages do occur so make sure you have a flashlight and batteries. The time in India is Standard Time +0530 UTC.

Postal Mail

Letters overseas must be marked “Air Mail” or “Par Avion.” A letter to the UK or USA can typically take 1 – 2 weeks to get to its destination. Courier services are also widely available. To receive letters from overseas, have them addressed with your name (surname first) to the post office in your area marked “Poste Restante.” The post office will hold letters for 30 days, and you’ll have to show them your passport for identification. The Head Post Office located on Dhanvanthri Road can be reached at 821-252-1618.

Phone

The country code for India is 91 and the city code for Mysore is 0821. When calling from the US to India, dial 011 + 91 + 821(omit the zero in the city code) + the phone number. When making a local call within Mysore, the city code is not necessary; just dial the phone number. You can use the International Subscriber Dialing phones in the kiosks with yellow signboards labeled “PCO”, “STD” or “ISD” which are located all over Mysore.

Currency

The easiest way to access money is with your debit card. Most ATMs will accept debit cards or you can get a cash advance with your credit card – just remember to take your credit card’s PIN number. Some ATMs have transaction limitations, usually up to Rs. 20,000 per transaction or per day.

There is no need to exchange your home currency into rupees prior to your arrival in India. In fact, it is prohibited to bring rupees into the country. When I arrived at Bangalore airport, there were currency exchange desks and an ATM that accepted my American debit card. I also had no problems using my debit card at the ATMs located in major banks such as ICICI or the State Bank of Mysore. If you are planning on studying at AYRI, try to get rupees in 500 or 1,000 denominations. Otherwise, bring a bag to hold smaller denominations.

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