Thousands of students flock to the Yoga Research Institute in Mysore, India each year in hopes of finding that missing piece to life’s puzzle. The Institute’s style of Ashtanga Vinyasa yoga is particularly attractive to Westerners because they enjoy the physical rigor and discipline. While many forms of yoga are more about relaxing, this style is more about physically challenging poses that evoke mental release. Some people say the method attracts the “overachiever” personality type, but in reality it caters to people of every level.

Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga was first brought to the Western world by the teachings of Patanjali Maharishi, a sage from Mysore India. He spoke about the significance of reaching internal purification and reconnecting with the “Universal Soul” through eight principles: moral codes, self-purification and study, posture, breath control, sense control, concentration, meditation and contemplation. He believed that each step built upon one another, much in the same way each posture (or “asana”) builds upon the next. Read more…

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Hi Everybody:

I know I’ve been dropping hints, but now we’ve actually done it: the Shala itself will be closing October 13th. That’s a Monday, it will be a regularly scheduled day, 6:30 am and 5 pm classes. Tuesday the 14th is the full moon, we’ll be closed. And Wednesday… we will begin the day as usual, my 6:30 am Mysore class. But it will be at the Santa Barbara Yoga Center. If you haven’t been there, Google it, the venerable Santa Barbara institution at 32 East Micheltorena Street, up there with the finer things in life in Santa Barbara’s Upper East.

How did we get to this point? Well, it began in the summer of 2005. Michele and I took our boys, then aged 2, to Guruji’s 90th birthday in Mysore. We stayed for 6 weeks. Returning to our happy little Shala, we opened a fateful envelope to find that our building had been purchased by a developer, who planned to raze it ASAP. Knowing that the hoops in this town for new developments can be daunting, we thought we might be able to carry on for years. Only problem: the lease that he was offering had a clause in it that he could evict us at any time during the term; not a great lease you might say. Since then, I’ve tired of having an axe over my head. Looking around at prices, we discovered that our building is really the last of its kind in the downtown area, including the “funk” zone, in terms of warehouse quality and size versus price. We would have had to move to Goleta to carry on the way we like.

So, since then, we’ve had our eyes out for opportunity. Things converged last month: Damien De Bastier, who conducts the other Mysore scene in town, decided to call it a day, right at the time that our lease was expiring. Lais Da Silva, the owner of the Yoga Center and an old friend, made us a good offer. There were other offers as well. So, we were in the position to negotiate something that should allow us to make a living (not a given in this biz).

The Yoga Center: I taught there from 1996 through 2001. I began the Mysore thing in Santa Barbara there in 1998. Since then, the tradition has been carried on there by David and Andrea Miliotis and then Damien. We first met many of you there. The place always felt quite good to me, an old church, spiritual and very sensual. We exited in 2001, not because we didn’t like it, but partly because Guruji was encouraging his approved teachers to start their own Yoga Shalas with “no mixing”, partly because we were excited about starting our own thing.

Over the last seven years, standing alone as a dedicated practice space required incredible determination and strength, on a regular basis actually, and this crucible transformed us as teachers, kind of burned the crap out. And we’ve also had an amazing time, unbelievably rapturous in the really good moments. Some of you have been coming regularly since the day we began. A lot has happened on that warehouse floor; we feel thankful for every one of you who have joined us there.

So, what next? We merge into the larger community of a yoga center. They’ve invited us in warmly. It has three rooms going most of the time, many teachers, countless classes a week. We expect the size of our classes to increase; there will be new people to practice with; there will be resources for promotion, the whole thing will be a bit more public. We plan to hold our integrity firm, so expect the experience to remain similar, just a slightly different vibration. We’ve been sequestered quite deep in the Shala, down a dark hallway in a quirky chaotic creative building; many of you like this. We do. But we’ve learned through the years that the average potential ashtangi finds the Shala highly intimidating, especially in the morning- it takes a brave soul to finally get that doorknob open, among those who don’t already know the tradition.

There will be a schedule change: the morning class with me, including Sunday, will be exactly the same. Afternoon: Monday- Wednesday- Friday, 4-5:55 pm, with Michele.

So, yes, it will be happening one day less a week, and it will be moved an hour earlier. We chose this in part because it will allow us to finally have dinner together as a family and in part because this seemed the best option that was offered us. In our poll, most of you who responded said that you could make that work. We appreciate your willingness to do this change. Prices will remain the same, and you will continue to pay us, even for drop-ins; accounting will be the same as it has been. Any of you holding current series will be able to use them at the Yoga Center. If there is a problem with the new schedule and your ability to make the transition, talk to us.

We will be having a goodbye gathering, at the Shala, potluck, on Saturday October 11th, at 5 pm. bring family and partner. For those who choose, you will have an opportunity to say a little something. We want all of you to come to this. And for those of you who have strayed, you may want to check in one more time before the Shala bows before its fate after the evening class on October 13th.

Are we sad? I was bummed that summer when we got the notice, my dream of doing the big heartbeat Shala into the sunset dashed irrevocably. Michele, whose feelings are never too far from her sleeve, has been more vocal lately about her difficulties in leaving her baby. She has shared this with some of you. But we’re ready to go forward – she gave me the go ahead to write this email – and the next phase promises to be a bright one for Ashtanga in this town. Also, I’ll be carrying on with the Sunday led primary class at Yoga Soup, 3:45 – 5:15 pm; at this point, that will be our only led class.

Any and all responses to this, please send them our way.

Namaste and Love,
Steve Dwelley

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Anu’s Internet Café

367, 2nd Main, 3rd Stage
Gokulam, Mysore
Karnataka, India 570 002
anugan@gmail.com or ganeshmysore@gmail.com
Phone: 0821 4288120
In addition to serving delicious home-cooked meals to the majority of the student population in Gokulam, Anu also teaches cooking classes in her home and includes printed recipes. Typically, the classes are held on Thursdays; however, alternate arrangements can be made. Once you’ve tried her food, you’ll want to learn how to recreate it when you get back home!

Tina Sasson – Home Cooked Meals

438 Contour Road, 3rd Stage
Gokulam, Mysore 570 002
Mobile: 9449818668
Home: 08212416668
Tina is well-known for her North and South Indian cooking lessons. After helping you prepare the dishes of your choosing, you can relax and enjoy your culinary creation.

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Here are a few of the favorite dining places frequented by yoga students.

Anu’s Internet Café

367, 2nd Main, 3rd Stage
Gokulam, Mysore
Karnataka, India 570 002
anugan@gmail.com or ganeshmysore@gmail.com
Phone: 0821 4288120
Anu is a lovely woman who prepares delicious home-cooked meals in a cozy bamboo hut on her rooftop. It’s one of the top favorite dining spots among yogis. A wonderful breakfast is served on Sundays but she is best known for her incredible lunch and dinner buffet served at 1 pm and 5 pm respectively, every day except Thursdays. The buffet usually includes a soup, 2 or 3 salads, 2 cooked vegetable dishes, dal, rice, chapatis and an Indian dessert. In addition to the buffet, you can order grape juice, ginger tea and the very popular, vegan chocolate banana cake! Anu also teaches cooking classes, which can include printed recipes with advance notice. Beware of the dog!

Aunty’s

377 (Outhouse) Cheluvamba
Agrahara, Mysore 570 024
Located across the street from the Kaveri Hotel and within walking distance to Mysore Mandala in Lakshmipuram, Aunty has been feeding yoga students home-cooked meals for years. Look for a little sign that reads “Aunty” above
the door.

Café Coffee Day

Kalidasa Road
Vani Vilas Puram, Mysore 570 002
India’s answer to Starbucks. Coffee Day’s most unique aspect is that it grows the coffee it serves in its cafés, so the coffee is fresh from the plantations of India. This is a popular, air-conditioned hangout conveniently located within walking distance to Gokulam and right next door to Reliance Webworld and Green Leaf Restaurant.

Green Hotel Restaurant

Chittaranjan Palace
Jayalakshmipuram, Mysore 570 012
Website: www.greenhotelindia.com
Email: thegreenhotel@airtelbroadband.in
There is a lovely outdoor restaurant on the hotel grounds, serving a range of vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. All food is prepared from fresh ingredients produced locally where appropriate. The hotel is also licensed and offers an eclectic range of Indian beers, and even Indian champagne. Meals cost approximately US$ 3.00 – 5.00 for a full lunch or dinner.

Green Leaf Restaurant

Kalidasa Road
Vani Vilas Puram, Mysore 570 002
Often visited by students residing in nearby Gokulam, the Green Leaf has a large menu with lots of choices.

Gokul Chats

Contour Road at KRS Road
Gokulam, Mysore 570 002
Right next door to Gokulam Woodlands Hotel and a short walk from AYRI, this restaurant serves yummy idlis.

Janaki’s Yogic Foods

132 8th Cross, 1st Stage
Gokulam, Mysore
Delicious lunches are served on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 1 – 2 pm but you must call a day in advance to let her know how many people to expect. Otherwise, there may not be enough food to go around. You can call her to book a private party on another day as well. Janaki’s is located on the same block as Yoga India.

Mysore Mandala

581 Dewans Road
Lakshmipuram, Mysore 570 004
Website: http://mandala.ashtanga.org
Mysore Mandala Shala has a beautiful sheltered garden where breakfast, lunch and dinner is served daily. The food is fresh and delicious and includes breakfast eggs, toast, fruit salad, muesli, a great raw vegetable plate, stir-fried veggies and weekly soup and curry specials. Mysore Mandala typically hosts musical events or movie screenings on Friday evenings and also offers Internet access and a student bulletin board.

Nagarathna’s Yogic Supplies

884 K.V.V. Press (near Siddappa Square)
Lakshmipuram, Mysore  570 004
E-mail: mrvinay@vsnl.com
Web site: www.mrvinay.com
Telephone: 821-233-3969/3876; 984-511-6350 (mobile)
Nagarathna serves a Western-style breakfast from 6 am to 12 pm, then switches to South Indian food for lunch between 1 – 4 pm and dinner from 5 – 9 pm. They also offer home delivery.

Sri Chakra House

104, 7th Cross
Gokulam, Mysore 570 002
Just down and around the block from AYRI, the Sri Chakra House serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in a shaded structure behind the house. Typical menu items include omelettes, tofu scramble with spinach, tomato and potatoes, a raw vegetable plate and weekly specials. The menu is similar to Mysore Mandala in Lakshmipuram. There is also a bulletin board with student interests, rooms for rent and the occasional Friday night entertainment.

Three Sisters

364 Cheluvamba
Agrahara, Mysore 570 024
When facing the Kaveri Hotel just a few doors to the right, the three sisters reside in the home with the lilac door. Freshly prepared meals and delicious lassis are served in the front room.

Tina Sasson – Home Cooked Meals

438 Contour Road, 3rd Stage
Gokulam, Mysore 570 002
Mobile: 9449818668
Home: 08212416668
Open for breakfast from 8:00am-12:00pm, a lovely garden café where trees shade the low tables, sits in the back of Tina’s house where she serves breakfast and dinner every day except Sundays. Highlights of the breakfast menu includes omelettes, fenugreek rotis with tomato chutney, fruit salad, almond badam and lassis, just to name a few items. On Monday-Saturday from 1:00pm-10:30pm, Tina serves up fresh North Indian cuisine on Gokulam Main Road beside Vijay Driving School. Tina is also well known for her cooking lessons by appointment.

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So now having waxed profusely on the incredible culinary delights of Mysore in my previous post, the question foremost in most students’ minds is “Is the food safe to eat or will I be crying feverishly while clinging to my blankie, formerly known as my cool $80 Mysore rug?”

Good question – glad you asked. I first arrived in Mysore armed for battle! My weapons of choice included grapefruit seed extract, a vegetable scrub brush and peeler. Whatever was left of my food after sanitizing it, exfoliating every crevice and peeling it down to an unrecognizable nub, I would ingest with a fistful of probiotics and enzymes. Ahhh, my plan was foolproof! Parasites didn’t have a chance.

My first night there, I even brushed my teeth with bottled water. The next morning I shuffled to the bathroom half awake and brushed my teeth, when I suddenly realized that I had used the tap water – horror of horrors! “What’s done is done” I thought, as I patiently awaited my fate. Yet nothing happened. No violent stomach cramps. No endless trips to the loo. No dysentery. Nada. Zip. Bottom line – I never got ill during my stint in Mysore and with a little common sense, most people do fine. That’s not to say people don’t get ill here, unfortunately sometimes to the point of requiring a hospital stay, but if you take some precautions and use common sense, you can greatly reduce the chances of this happening.

• Drink bottled water only
• Don’t drink beverages with ice
• If possible, brush your teeth with bottled water
• Eat fruits with a thick peel such as bananas, watermelon, pineapple, oranges
• If you do eat foods with the peel such as grapes and cucumbers, wash them thoroughly first in bowl of water with a few drops of grapefruit seed extract
• Bring some activated charcoal and Triphala for belly issues
• Eat at reputable places such as those listed in Dining Out In Mysore

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There are many street vendors and food stalls that you can satisfy your appetite just about anywhere! Fruit stands selling fresh watermelon, pineapple, grapes, jackfruit and seasonal fruits are plentiful. Fresh vegetables are sold in street stalls, on wooden carts, even blankets on the ground strewn with the day’s harvest.Coconut sellers abound with fresh juicy coconuts. Coconut water is the drink of the gods! It’s perfect to quench your thirst and for a quick infusion of electrolytes. The white meat inside the coconut is known as “gungy” and is also very delicious. First, you drink the water. Then the coconut wallah opens the coconut for you and gives you a piece of the shell to scoop out the gungy. Yum! A good coconut seller will know how to pick a coconut to suit your preference, so be sure to ask if you want mostly coconut water or a lot of gungy. A popular hangout for yoga students with the best coconuts is Prasad’s stand located at the corner of Contour and Main Road in Gokulam.

The cooked cuisine of South Indian is best known for its tempting dosas, idlis, thalis and the delicious aroma of sambhar (spiced lentil soup) and vegetable curry dishes. These dishes common to the region are a wholesome balance of rice and lentils (dal) – staple foods prepared with a careful soaking and fermenting process that makes them more easily digestible. Pungent spices are used liberally to add flavor and assist digestion as well.

Mysore dosa is a delicious crisp crepe made from rice and lentils often filled with savory potatoes or vegetables. Idlis are steamed rice and lentil cakes, typically eaten for breakfast. Deep-fried lentil and rice doughnuts are known as vadas. Thali plates are portions of vegetables, dal, rice and curd served in small bowls with chapatis and often followed by a sweet. Chapatis, round flat unleavened bread typically made with whole-wheat flour, are used to wrap around and pick up bites of dal or vegetable curry. Food is eaten with the right hand.

For a list of places to eat while in Mysore, see Dining Out in Mysore.

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